Shanghai’d Loops

  • 600 KM or so, Spring 2020
  • 3 days, each day about 200km
  • JonathanR & JustinJ

JR: As Shanghai cyclists we spend our time riding from the centre (with its coffee shops, bakeries, beers and peanuts) to the edge in the hope of finding the unicorn of roads – smooth, no cars or traffic lights and if you are really lucky a tail wind. Every weekend we gather and perform that same ritual. But what happens if you imagine a ride where you start at the edge and stay on it the whole way round Shanghai – what would that be like? That was the question Justin and I set out to answer after our original plans of the mountains and countryside of Anhui were scuppered. First question was which bike, gravel or Brompton, but we soon dismissed it and moved onto the route and other logistics.

JJ: Springs a great time for a tour of Shanghai, taking in the more rural aspects mixed with some urban and industrial. Plants are starting to bloom, rape seed in full show and everyone kind of happy (well just opening up from Cov19). A few places to stop and see along the way so could easily turn into a 5 day explore or something. Someone should also try the full 400km circle in a day. Highlights; west canals and east seawalls. Lowlights; north pudong and dofu roads.

Thursday 2nd April

JR: The start point was to be Jinshan by the coast and having consulted the great wind god (epicrideweather app) we set off counterclockwise, west and then north to loop round the top of Shanghai to Baoshan. Some of the roads are known regular haunts of Shanghai cycling the rest were provided courtesy of Strava heat maps. There were 2 main unknowns, the ferry to Chongming and how bad would the north of Shanghai really be. Jinshan is dominated by the chemical industry but we soon left that behind and enjoyed the sunshine and quiet roads only interrupted by a small altercation with a police man. Arriving at the canals we enjoyed the car free riverside cruising, feeling free and thanking we did not need to be in the office – the chat turned to we do next in our lives post C19………..

We arrived in Anting for John’s special lunch and after that the roads turned to small lanes and a constant stream of left and rights as we made our way through farmland which was a far cry from the expected factories and industry. Arriving into north Baoshan we went to where google says a ferry goes to Chongming – except its only good if you are a truck. After some shouting and waving we headed south and stumbled upon the ferry which took cars and bicycles to the island (albeit we didn’t know which part). The trip across the Yangtze is basically the same as the Huangpu but for 45 mins (of boat dodging). We arrived at a small dock about 15km south of our hotel for the night. Just over 200km completed.

JJ: Need to explore more along the south sides of the canals and Huangpu. Shanghai’s doing a great job of cleaning those up and putting in paths. Actually this whole day turned out better than expected. Many food options along the way.

https://www.strava.com/routes/25980411

Friday 3rd April

JR: After a hearty breakfast we set off anti-clockwise under advice from the great wind god. Chongming is a well known ride to both of us and we soon found ourselves on the coast path heading to the southern end. This was followed by the deserted roads of the south eastern end of the island. At this point we could not believe our luck and progress was swift on some of those fabled unicorn roads. As we headed up the eastern side of the island on the old ROCN route we stopped in a field of yellow to take pics and just enjoy the sun. However it was about to change as we started to hit road works more and more and soon realised another new highway was being added (because the traffic is so bad). This slowed us down and after several backtracks we made it again onto the coast road but guess what they are rebuilding the northern end of the island sea wall as well. At this point we had done 200km and had about 20km to go. Maybe it was tiredness or maybe it was just lack of concentration but after one junction I managed to ride into Justin and take a tumble – slightly bruised and nursing some ripped clothes (bike was completely fine btw) we made our way back into the town and our hotel. Recovery beers, peanuts and out for Yangs dumplings.

JJ: Good idea of JR with having two nights in same hotel in Chongming. Meant we could leave bags there and take it a bit easier around the island. Perfect time of year for Chongming.

https://www.strava.com/routes/25980403

Saturday 4th April

JR: The great wind god said today was going to be a cyclist’s wet dream. We arrived at the ferry terminal and waited for the next ferry and didn’t actually know where it would go but our route was simple head south from Baoshan and go through WaiGaoQiao and pick up Renmintang and head south using many of the Pudong cycling routes. Well the ferry took us back to where we were on Thursday but during the trip we were able to observe the 3 minutes silence to the sound of fog horns from the many boats on the Yangtze – a moving time. The ride through Baoshan was industrial in view and bumpy under wheel due to the large number of trucks about. Our first target was another ferry across the mouth of the Huangpu and then it was more of the same but this time container trucks but following Justin’s nose we kept pushing south and by some miracle appeared on the top of Renmintang – so for those that want to know what happens if you don’t turn left onto 5 bridges look at the GPX to see where you can go (trucks and bumpy roads basically). Continuing south around the airport we eventually picked up the tree lined road and then the sea wall. A southerly wind pushing us along made for a great section but as we got closer to Dishui there were more and more people enjoying the walk or climbing onto the mud flats to collect dinner. At the hotel our path was blocked because it is being used as a quarantine hotel so we diverted around and were soon back on the tree lined roads heading back to Jinshan. Apart from a small diversion to check out some hovercraft (apparently the homestay needs one) we made steady progress to the finish. There was one more surprise as the sunset the Jinshan chemical plants glowed in all their glory. Only 185km today bringing the total to 610km.

As a trip you will learn a lot about the city you live in – you will be surprised at the amazing variety of everything. I am sure others will follow and refine the experience but if you have 3 days, a curious mind and want to understand your surroundings then just do it – after all if it all goes wrong you are only 40mins in a Didi to home!!

JJ: route selection is very easy to do these days on a Strava premium account. Turn on the heat map, follow the heat lines and if you see nicer smaller roads next to them use those instead. sometimes you hit dead ends but mostly you find nice new routes on the ever-changing roads of China. Any bike could do this tour and you can buy disposable clothes at 711 so you don’t in theory need to bring anything.

https://www.strava.com/routes/25980416


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